Well, with only one week left for archers to be able to harvest a buck, I thought I would take my boy out to do some hunting. My son is only 5 yrs old so I decided to go to a place that he would not have to walk very far but we could still be successful, even if it wasn't going to be a monster buck. Saw this little 3x2 (one side is broken or he'd be a 3x3) early in the morning. We tried to put a stalk on him but 5 yr olds have short legs and aren't extremely quiet. The buck gave us the slip. The buck went down the trail we had come up. We decided to turn back down the trail and see what we could come up with. We reached a clearing and heard an animal coming through the brush and here came the same little 3x2. I had told myself that this was a meat hunt and whatever walked in front of me with antlers was going to go down. So, at 25 yards, this little buck's fate was sealed! I had my wife meet us up on the hill to help me take of the deer. I used the gutless method and I truly believe there is no better way to get an animal off the mountain.
Don't get me wrong, I like big antlers. This was just a fun little "outing". This buck wasn't the biggest "TOAD" on the mountain but hunting is more that just big antlers! Hope y'all enjoy the pics!
Well, here is the continuation of my 2011 archery buck taxidermy in progress. This is by no means a step by step but more or less just to give an idea of the process. Many people think that taxidermy is actually the process of "stuffing" the animals...somehow preserving the entire (skin, eyes, blood, bones, guts, etc.) shoulder of the animals you would like "stuffed". Aside from the tanned cape (skin) and antlers, everything else on the animal is fake. Foam forms are used to "stuff" the animal and glass eyes are used in place of the real thing. I use Bondo body filler to fill the ears and make them stiff. The ears are shaped and clay is added at the ear butt in order to give it shape and muscle. Clay is sometimes added to features on the mannequin (foam form) for added detail or shape and sometimes to fix imperfections in the form. The mannequin is then covered with a paste that will hold the skin in place. The TANNED cape is then placed over the form and sewn together. The wet cape is placed on the mannequin, so some drying time is necessary. Sometimes, foam piping and screen like material is pinned in place in order to hold hair and skin down and in place. After fully drying, finish work (touch up paint and filler clay work) is required as well as grooming. Hope you enjoy the pictures!